Across the bridge, where an elegant cloistered
16th century convent is now an art museum, old Ronda, La Ciudad,
sidewinds off into cobbled streets hemmed by handsome town mansions,
some still occupied by Ronda's titled families. The Casa de Don Bosco
is one such, its interior patio long ago roofed in glass against
Ronda's harsh winters. Its small, almost folly-like gardens lose out,
however, to the true star, a few minutes' walk to the furthest end of
the Ciudad, the Palacio Mondragón. Clumsily modernised in parts during
the 1960s, this still has working vestiges of the exquisite miniature
water gardens dating from its time as a Moorish palace during Ronda's
brief reign as a minor Caliphate under Córdoba in the 12th century.
The
cobbled alley to the Mondragón leads naturally on to Ronda's loveliest
public space, the leafy Plaza Duquesa de Parcent, which boasts a
convent, two churches, including the toytown belltower of the iglesia
Santa Maria de Mayor, and the handsome arched ayuntamiento (council)
building. Nearby calle Armiñan leads down to the spacious plaza of the
traditional workers' barrio, San Francisco, with excellent bars and
restaurants. Back from the Mondragón, the Plaza del Campillo overlooks
steps that zigzag down to a dramatic eye-level through the Puente
Nuevo. The town's pedestrianised 'high street', calle Espinel, opposite
the bullring, is nicknamed 'La Bola' and is where Rondeños go for
virtually everything.